Our new Web site reflects a new visual design, a new information architecture, and the consolidation of our regional websites. The creation of this Web site has been truly collaborative. Thank you for your effort.

Viognier Tasting Report Back

18 JUNE  2007

THE RISE OF VIOGNIER IN SOUTH AFRICA:

TASTING NOTES AND COMMENTS: by Greg de Bruyn CWM

The Western Cape chapter of the Institute of CWM’s have embarked on a programme of tasting presentations. The purpose is to raise awareness of and funds for the Institute’s scholarship programme for previously disadvantaged individuals, and to offer some informed insights to the wine-interested public.

Winesense came to the party (so to speak) with logistical support. Their innovative taste-before-you-buy specialist wine shops provide pleasant and convenient venues across Cape Town.
Tastings are scheduled roughly once a month at either Willowbridge (Tyger Valley), Cavendish Square (Claremont) or Mandela Rhodes Place (City Centre).

Each tasting features a different Cape Wine Master putting forth on a subject close to his/her heart.

New girl Meryl Weaver kicked off last Thursday with a fascinating look at the Rhone variety, Viognier, both as a stand-alone and in blends with both red and white grapes. Her presentation went far beyond the general perception of the cultivar as a peachy, mostly over-oaked, alternative to Chardonnay, and revealed something quite assertive and potentially exciting.

The tasting started with some familiar Viognier players, Fairview and Lourensford, both fairly oaky and seriously alcoholic, but otherwise well-managed and complex. They offer what we have come to know as typical of the variety, rightly or wrongly, but they don’t pose any threats to the classics of Condrieu.

Next was the first of three offerings from the unheralded Bottega family’s wineries, Idiom and Whalehaven. The pure Viognier (under the Idiom brand) had foreboding oak-dominant aromas – a personal pet-hate – but enough complexity and length on the palate to forgive winemaker Sydney Burke his excesses.

This was followed by Backsberg’s Babylonstoren, also thoroughly wooded but retaining noticeable sweetness. Nice enough overall, but leaving a suspicion it was made to win medals, not to be drunk for enjoyment. Too many buts to be great.

Meryl changed tack here, showing what Viognier could achieve when it’s blended with other white varieties. First was the Quoin Rock second-label Glenhurst Sauvignon blanc/Viognier (78/22%). Symbiotic and compatible; the bigness of the Viognier is a gracious foil for the often simplistic acidity of Sauvignon, and together they’re remarkably harmonious.

Then we had a quality nose-dive into the Kumkani Chardonnay-Viognier. I’m utterly at odds with the Platter eulogies; this was simple, clumsily wooded white wine of indeterminate cultivar. I wish they wouldn’t do this. To be fair, though, it was the cheapest wine in the tasting, at R35 a bottle.

This was followed by the Viognier-dominated (85/15%) Whalehaven Viognier/Chardonnay, oakless and light-hearted. I couldn’t help thinking this was what went wrong with the introduction of Viognier into California and Australia – it became a general-purpose, high-yielding blending component. It was easy quaffing fare, though.

The third direction we explored was the quintessential dollop of V in Shiraz, al-la Cote Rotie. First was Joostenberg, with a solid 7% Viognier. This is an artisinal, organic wine, rich in varietal character. What it lacks in finesse it makes up for in honest flavour and robust goodness.

Our hostess used a bit of creative licence next, and followed with the unlikely Fairview Pinotage/Viognier. This barely made it to the party with only 4% V and no other credentials, but in spite of my misgivings, I liked it (a bit).

The tasting ended with the best wine of the evening, by everyone’s account: Idiom SMV (actually only SM to Idiom, but containing 4% Viognier). My first encounter with this wine has impressed me. It’s noble, supple and complex, and displays all the right characteristics for a displaced Rhone.

So what has this tasting shown us?

Firstly, that Meryl Weaver knows a lot about Viognier, and her infectious enthusiasm makes the rest of us want to know too.

Secondly, that this series is great value in wine tasting, regardless of the causes and motives.

Thirdly, that Viognier may well have been abused in most new-world industries, it may not have longevity, but it certainly is a worthwhile tool in the winemaker’s workshop.

For a full programme of events, refer to www.capewinemasters.co.za.